Auto electrical is where a good ute build either comes together or slowly falls apart. Dual battery systems, DC-DC chargers, solar, inverters, driving lights, light bars, UHF, cameras and 12V outlets all share one loom, one charging system and one earth path, and a fitout that was added piece by piece over three years is usually the one with the flat auxiliary battery and the intermittent fault nobody can find. Planned as a system, it just works.

Power - batteries, DC-DC and solar

A dual battery system keeps a second battery for the fridge, lights and accessories so the starting battery is never the thing you drain at a campsite. AGM batteries are cheaper, heavier and happy to be discharged to about half their capacity. Lithium costs more up front, weighs roughly half as much for the same usable capacity, can be drawn down much further and lasts far more cycles - which is why it has become the default on serious touring builds. A DC-DC charger is not optional with either: modern utes use smart alternators that vary their output, so a plain isolator will leave an auxiliary battery permanently half-charged. A DC-DC unit takes what the alternator gives and charges properly to the battery's profile, and most also take a solar input, so a fixed panel or a folding blanket feeds the same controller. Solar is what makes staying put for days possible rather than driving to charge.

Lighting - driving lights, light bars and work lights

Driving lights throw distance down the road and are the right choice for highway kangaroo country between Gympie and Caboolture. Light bars throw width, which is what you want on a slow, twisting dirt track, and a combination beam bar tries to do some of both. Work lights and rock lights light the ground around the vehicle - the tray, the campsite, the recovery you are doing at 9pm. Lumen figures on their own tell you very little; the beam pattern and the lux at distance are what actually matter, and a properly aimed pair of quality driving lights will out-perform a cheap bar with a bigger number on the box. Anything mounted forward has to be wired to a switched circuit, fused correctly, and positioned so it stays legal on the road.

Communications and the rest

A UHF radio is the difference between guessing and knowing on a convoy run or a station track, and antenna choice and mounting matter more than the radio's price. Reversing cameras, trailer plugs, Anderson connections for a van, roof console mounts and 12V and USB outlets through the tray or canopy all belong in the same plan.

Brands we carry

Power and lighting here run to Enerdrive, Redarc, Offroad Animal, Outback Kitters, Campboss, EFS 4x4, EGR, Scout, Clearview and Stedi, with Tekonsha and Redarc covering electric brake control. We are an authorised dealer or distributor for the brands we carry, and everything we supply is ADR compliant - which for lighting means it can legally be fitted and used on an Australian road, not just sold.

Vehicles, and fitting at Warana

We wire the Ford Ranger and Raptor, Toyota HiLux, Isuzu D-MAX and MU-X, LandCruiser 79, 200 and 300 Series and Prado, Mitsubishi Triton, Mazda BT-50, Volkswagen Amarok, Nissan Navara and Ford Everest, plus RAM 1500, RAM 2500 and 3500 and the Chevrolet Silverado. American trucks need particular care - a 12V system built around a different market's wiring standards does not always take an Australian accessory loom without adaptation. All work is done in-house at 4/43 Premier Circuit, Warana on the Sunshine Coast: correct cable sizing for the run length, fused at both ends, sealed connectors, factory looms used where they exist and nothing spliced into a CAN bus circuit that should not be touched. If a canopy, drawers or a tray are part of the build, the wiring goes in while everything is apart. Send us the vehicle and what you want to run, and we will design and quote the system.